Our story begins in Magadan. Expedition leader and pilot Shane Lundgren and photographer Marc Bryan-Brown are making their way to Yakutsk. It's a sight to see: two Americans with 15 cases, including the satellite phone, digital equipment, enough food to feed 15 people for 5 weeks, and only two Russian words between them.

After several hours in lines that went nowhere, they claimed their 14 cases (one disappeared en route). Customs officials immediately confiscated the satellite phone and insisted it be wrapped [video, 2348k] properly for shipping back to Anchorage. Our story could easily have ended before it began. Luckily, a back-up phone was waiting in Yakutsk. Next leg, Aeroflot -- what else will go wrong?

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