The next morning, we got up very early, hoping to get out while we could. The sky was sunny and blue, save for some thick clouds far to the northwest. At the local airport office, the "weather woman" said that a huge front was moving our way -- despite favorable reports from other airports. If we left right away, we could beat the front; but she insisted on waiting for satellite pictures from Yakutsk...which were more than three hours in coming.

Sure enough, the clouds continued to build and darken, and we missed our opportunity. Foolishly, we had imagined that we'd left bad weather and bureaucracy behind us in Yakutsk.

Copyright © 1995 Discovery Communications, Inc. Photo: Marc Bryan-Brown