The ancient phone system is just one sign of the general state of affairs in Yakutsk. A city of 187,000 people, Yakutsk consists mostly of dilapidated, Soviet-style buildings, including huge square apartment blocks designed by planners without an aesthetic thought in their heads. Since the entire city sits on permafrost , buildings must rest on concrete pilings sunk deep into the ground. Otherwise, the weight of the structures would cause the thawing ground to give way, and the buildings would topple in spring.

Yakutsk is also home to the world-renowned Permafrost Institute, where research is conducted on the constitution, depth, and preservative qualities of permafrost. Archaeologists like Bill Fitzhugh do much of their digging in the frozen earth, where the physical remains of ancient man are found intact.

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