So here we are in Yakutsk, unsure of the time of day. The sun adds to the confusion; at this time of year it stays light until eleven at night. Most of our time has been spent making desperate calls to Moscow and the States in search of a video camera and a way to get the satellite phone out of customs in Anchorage.

Making calls from Yakutsk is like telephoning Mars: it can take hours or even days. Half of the time, you get a busy signal. If the call comes through immediately and sounds too loud, you know it hasn't even left Yakutsk. We had better luck calling on the backup CBS satellite phone I use for radio dispatches.

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