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| We were forced to land
after flying for only two and a half hours, as it was too late in
the day to make it across the mountains visible in the distance. We ended
up in a tiny village of unpainted houses, named Tyoply Klyutch ("warm spring") after a small nearby
pond that never freezes.
A bumpy truck ride took us to a riverside spot, where we set up camp for the night. Later, the local air traffic controller gave us a ride into town in his sporty Toyota. We bought tomatoes and cucumbers from one of the many greenhouses people keep to extend the growing season. Spirits were higher than ever here -- even before the beer arrived. Crystal-clear water rippled past our campsite. Just after dusk, we were treated to a spectacular moonrise over the water.   
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