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Vasily Posnikov peered out through his thick glasses at a sight I'm sure he'll
not soon forget: an enormous riverboat edging its way to the bank near
his summer cottage, carrying a crowd of foreigners. The 75-year-old Yakut man
normally spends his days whittling heads for duck decoys and preparing fish in
a little smokehouse to eat during the coming winter. Now he graciously hosts
our expedition team for an overnight stay. Places like this make us forget all
the delays and problems so far [map].
We came to the isolated village of Belaya Gora courtesy of Vasily's son, Kostya. Here, far above the Arctic Circle, Kostya works with the local government to make arrangements for visiting delegations. 
 
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