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| Minutes later, we descend into Cape Schmidt. From the air, we can see whales
spouting and smell the brine in the air. A fresh and very cool breeze meets us
as we climb out of the planes. So do the border guards; they bar our entry
into the town.
Our team is summarily denied permission to go to an archaeological dig just outside of town. Nomadic reindeer herders are camped 35 kilometers away -- but we can't visit them. In fact, the guards won't let us leave the area around the airport. As on several other occasions, we're approached by someone hoping to sell us illegal goods. This time, it's ancient mammoth ivory.   
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