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| Before long, an ominous scene comes into view. Two gold mining towns sit next
to what was once a river bed. Now all that remains of the river are piles of
yellowish sand and pools of dark water.
Over the past few decades, mining enterprises have turned the tundra upside down looking for "zoloto" -- gold. Their equipment burrowed through the riverbeds like giant moles, leaving the banks stripped and pock-marked with huge spoil piles and pits. Nothing was spared in the rush to extract the precious metal; the evidence spreads out beneath us.   
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