| "Welcome to Kodiak," the captain said as we approached the last stop on our
exhausting journey. But we were not
home yet: Sven Haakanson's home village of
Old Harbor still lay a 40-minute flight away. Like most of the island, it's
accessible only by small plane. It took two more days for the fog to lift.
Kodiak is rightfully called "the Emerald
Isle" of Alaska: It almost glows with every shade
of green imaginable. Small waterfalls abound, leading to rocky beaches. The
town has the look and feel of the Pacific Northwest, a place for game
hunters, sports fishermen, and "eco-tourists." Though Kodiak is rich in history
, only a tiny percentage of its population is native.
 
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