Today, though, we are hundreds of miles north of Verkhoyansk, in the river village of Belaya Gora ("White Mountain"), on the middle reaches of the Indigirka. As we return from a hike, Vasily Posnikov throws new wood on the fire in front of his tiny wooden hut. Soon he's telling stories of the old days: how the Yakuts came north centuries ago and slowly pushed the Even people towards the Arctic Sea. He also says he's invoked the spirits to bless our visit.

Later we all gather around a small table for delicious fish soup and the inevitable round of vodka toasts. The sun has gone down only a short time ago, yet it is already midnight.

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