After visiting the first archaeological site, we took a boat trip up the Lena River in the drizzling rain to Diring, Yuri Machonov's tour de force. Following a steep climb up a very muddy hillside, we came upon an enormous field that had been scraped clean by bulldozers. Beyond were two of the largest excavation pits our archaeologists had ever seen [video]. At one point someone remarked privately that the whole scene seemed so Soviet: no expense had been spared to remove half a mountain in order to prove a dubious theory. "This isn't archaeology -- it's strip mining," Marc said.

Machonov led everyone past the various pits, explaining that the rocks might be an indication of human activity dating back two million years. His claim is hotly debated in archaeological circles.

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